HAPPY EASTER

Happy happy Easter to all of my friends and family! I wish all of you a wonderful day; I miss you all very much! While it was certainly difficult to be away from loved ones on Easter, today was just another testament to how incredible this shipboard community is! To start things off, Desmond Tutu said a sunrise service this morning which was an amazing Easter gift in itself! Today he was not dressed in his usual knee high socks, and blue baseball cap, but rather a beautiful burgundy cloak and a large silver cross hanging around his neck. cloak His words were special and inspiring as usual, and I’d say it’s pretty amazing to hear Easter Sunday mass from the Archbishop of Cape Town! On the procession out of the service, everyone was given a red carnation to throw into the ocean as a little celebration. That was very cool, to see hundreds of red flowers being tossed into the sea! Then it was back inside for breakfast, and a regular day of class.
We have only had three days on the ship since departing from Malaysia. There was only enough time to get a couple of papers done, and prepare for the next port. I think going to Vietnam is going to be eye-opening and challenging for many people. Instead of learning about how Britain’s rule negatively affected India, or the aftermath of Apartheid in South Africa, Vietnam is a country whose recent history is closely tied with the United States. I am leaving for Cambodia April 9-11, and I know that visiting the killing fields in the city of Phnom Penh will give me a new view of the civil war that took place there, and the role of my country in that.
I love you all so much, so take, care, and I will write again when I return from my adventure in Vietnam!

Malaysia

I had a great time doing South Africa independently, and left my Malaysia itinerary wide open to do the same. I decided to fly to the capital of Kuala Lumpur with a small group of friends. It is known as the “garden city of lights” and it sure did live up to that name. it was a quick fifty minute flight from the Island of Penang over to Kuala Lumpur, and while landing, I saw the most palm trees that I’ve ever seen in my life! It was gorgeous. Our cab driver confused us a little on the way into the city by explaining the way to Times Square for shopping, and how we have to go to the Twin Towers early to get a ticket up to the sky bridge. KL as it is commonly known, was indeed a lot like New York. It was a modern city, with lush green trees and parks intertwined with buildings. I could tell that the Malaysian people are very proud of the architecture, and see this place as a symbol of progress for their country.
Since Malaysia is the only predominately Muslim country that we are going to, we wanted to learn more about Islam during this trip. So, our group went to the national Mosque. We had to wear full length cloaks, and scarves to cover our heads, but got to go in and look at the beautiful building. I am fascinated by learning about other religions, so the pamphlets they had at the mosque were a wealth of information. We also went to an Islamic art museum which was another unique and stunning building in the city, and had a very complete collection of art and other artifacts. In KL, we noticed a reflexology ship on every corner, so after a long day of walking around we decided to try one. The thirty minute foot massage was an interesting experience. It actually hurt a little, but I learned which part of the foot corresponds to particular body parts, how to relieve stress and headaches! It was a overall a relaxing three days in the city, a very different experience than India had been just a few days prior. But it was nice to stay in a hotel, and get to take a wonderful bubble bath. The people I was with made the trip that much better, would love to go back to KL someday!

Dalit Overnight

Every sixth human being in the world today is an Indian, and every sixth Indian is an untouchable, a Dalit. Today there are 165 million Dalits (equal to more than half the population of the United States) and they continue to suffer under India’s 3,500-year-old caste system, which remains a stigma on humanity. However, Dalits are awakening. We are struggling against caste discrimination, illiteracy, and poverty; our weapons are education, self-empowerment, and democracy.
~An excerpt from Untouchables by Narenda Jadhav

One of the highlights of my India trip was an overnight in a Dalit village. First we visited the Delta School of nursing, founded specifically to give Dalit women the chance to continue their education build self-esteem. The students did a great traditional dance performance for us, and then we got time show them our silly American dances like the electric slide. We also got to play their favorite game of throw ball, similar to volleyball, and that was great! The founder of the school gave us an overview of Dalit history, and the struggles that many still face today. Later in the evening we went to the actual village where we would be sleeping. Several members from the community came out to greet us, and lead us around their village with pride. It was a little weird having people just come out of their thatch-roof houses and stare at us, but then again, I guess I was staring back just the same. I brought along a Polaroid camera so the kids could keep photos of themselves. They thought that it was magic, and got really excited, but it got a little chaotic because everyone wanted their own, and I didn’t have that much film. After a wonderful cultural performance by the villagers, we ended up sleeping on the cement floor of a school. It was a great night to really get to know our group from the ship, and share how we felt about the day. Overall, my time in the village was everything I had hoped for! I liked getting out of the city and meeting these people. It gave me a different perspective on India, and I learned a great deal about the caste system. It is difficult for me to understand how discrimination can be written into the ideals of a religion. In Hinduism, your caste is determined by your karma, or your deeds in past lives. If you are born as a Dalit, then you have bad karma, which means you did bad things in a past life. There is nothing you can do to change that, so you just accept it when others tell you are subhuman, and must be subservient to the members of higher castes. I’m still having a hard time making sense of the Apartheid in South Africa where the hatred and separation was based on skin color. So I really can’t wrap my brain around this kind of discrimination based on an abstract concept like karma.
Being back on the ship, I am surprised at how much I am missing India. I really loved my time there, and I just feel like there was not even enough time to scratch the surface of understanding this country’s complex history and cultural organization. I hope to go back one day to this wonderful, and unique place.

orphanage visit

I was amazed at how close I got to my Catholic faith in a place that is over 85% Hindu. First was the incredible opportunity to visit St. Thomas Basilica. This is one of only three cathedrals in the world that stands over the tomb an apostle of Jesus Christ! St. Thomas came to India in 52 A.D. to spread the word of the Lord, and died there as a martyr only twenty years later. I got chills while walking down beneath the church where the tomb lies, just thinking about being so close to someone who actually touched Jesus. It was a very special time for me to pray for my Uncle Tom, a priest in Alaska who touches lives every day with the love of Christ!
Another day we went to Missionaries of Charity Orphanage, known simply as “Mother Theresa’s House” to locals. Zig-zagging through the streets of Chennai India on a crazy rickshaw ride, I was armed with the usual bubbles, stickers and toys that I bring to other orphanage visits, and ready to play! But as it usually goes, God had other plans. He doesn’t need material things to work, and sometimes it is easy to forget that. Just a simple touch can change a life. It is hard to explain the deep connection that I felt with the little boy whose head lay in y lap. His whole body was crippled by polio and he could hardly move at all. All I could do was sit there, stroking his arm and constantly wave the flies out of his open mouth. That was enough. Soon his body became more relaxed, and his hand finally loosened from a clenched fist.
Of the seventy or so kids who reside in the orphanage the vast majority have severe mental or physical disabilities. For some, their mothers didn’t get pre-natal care and abandoned them shortly after birth. Others are enduring the side- effects of incest, which is still practiced in rural parts of India. And still others are suffering from traumatic early life experiences of abuse or neglect. The workers have actually found many children by looking in dumpsters around the city.
Yes it was heartbreaking to see these kids so helpless and so weak, but it was also heart-building to be there and for the first time, really understand the value of every human life. I am usually the one who can’t watch the operating scenes in Grey’s Anatomy, so I was kind of surprised that it was never hard for me to look at the children. I wanted to see them. No matter which way their limbs were deformed, no matter if they couldn’t hear me, or talk to me. Their lives have a purpose, an intrinsic value, just like the rest of us. Mother Theresa dedicated her life to helping the most wretchedly poor, the most severely crippled. She did not turn away from anyone, and being in her orphanage, I was challenged to do the same. I loved listening to the nun’s funny anecdotes about Mother Theresa’s visits there, and their passionate testimonials of why they do this kind of work. The pure selfless goodness that they have to take care of these children 24 hours a day seven days a week is nothing short of miraculous, and a result of an incredible undying faith. The people inside Mother Theresa’s house gave so much to me in the short time I was there, more than I could ever give back to them. I witnessed God working at his best, and that was pretty amazing!

Welcome to India

India was a thrilling, at times overwhelming bustle of activity. Little orange rickshaw taxis flooded the streets (I will never complain about the San Diego traffic again!) With three times the population of the United States living on a third of its land, India will surpass China as the most populated country in the world. My five days there flew by, but I was able to do so much! The population density in the city of Chennai was unlike anything I’d ever seen before. It is also known as the city of billboards, so between the people and the advertisements there was constantly something interesting catching my attention! Gram, you would LOVE people watching there!
It was surreal to drive by the second longest beach in the world, that I had seen news coverage of a few years ago when the tsunami hit. I loved learning about Gandi and his nonviolent resistance that lead a revolution to freedom in global studies. I felt like an Indian princess when Katie and I went shopping for sarees, went to a welcome reception with Indian university students. I visited colorful Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva, Visnu, and Ganesh, and even watched monkeys share in picnics at a community park. I won’t go into the details on everything, but here are a few things will give you a good idea of how I spent my time in India.

India Pictures

Hi everyone, as usual, the pictures are up before the posts! I will try to get everying up by Malaysia! I had the most wonderful time in India. I didn't go to the Taj so I could do this overnight in a Dalit village which is where the untouchables live, and that was amazing! One of the best things I have ever done! Click below to see all my pictures!

http://sandiego.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2032678&l=8907f&id=24500893

http://sandiego.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2032685&l=633ab&id=24500893

One Last Thing!

So, I know it took me forever to post about South Africa, and I bet you didn’t know you would be getting a novel! But I hope you all got an idea of what I did, and how much this beautiful country has touched my heart! The kindness of the people is what I will remember the most. Truly remarkable days like these don’t come around too often, and I am forever grateful for the amazing gift of being changed by these people, and this new place that I love, Cape Town! One thing is for sure; Nick Galipeau, you and I are definitely coming back for World Cup 2010!!

Right now I am actually on at sea again after departing from Mauritius. My time in Mauritius was a wonderful time to relax and appreciate the beautiful beaches. It is known as the spring break in the trip, because this port falls right before we start the more hectic schedule of traveling in India and Asia. So, I stayed in a villa with several of my friends on Flic and Flac beach, about thirty minutes outside of Port Louis. The weather was nice when we were there, mostly high 80°’s, but about a week early the island had a very bad storm with some damage, so unfortunately I couldn’t find any scuba-diving operators that were going out. But I did finish two of my pleasure books and got a little tan, so that was great! A big thank you to Aunt Betty, Auntie Shelly, and Mom for your cards in this port! I know I have said it before, but what an amazing blessing it is to have such a loving and supporting family! You are all in my prayers as well, I love you more than words can say!

Africa Jam

The last full day in Cape Town I went back again to Khayelitsha township. One of my friends from USD Jenny had organized this independent township visit and service project with this great Christian NGO called Africa Jam. It was started by this amazing lady Ellen, who first came to South Africa on a missions trip, and ended up falling in love, not only with the country, but with a man in one of the townships. She left her life in Minnesota, and moved to Africa, and started this organization, based around her husband’s love of music. They offer programs for children in several of the townships that introduce them to art and music, and Christian values. I loved listening to her inspiring story of starting a grassroots NGO. I am more positive than ever that my future career will be somewhere in the social programming domain.
Our project for the day was to participate in an after school drama program in Khayelitsha. What an incredible experience. When we arrived we were split into small groups, two semester at sea kids with two kids from the township. They took us around on a tour, which was great because it was so personal and we really got a chance to talk to them.

Observing the drama project itself was amazing! Once the program started, the inside of this large shack made of scrap metal was suddenly transformed into a stage, full of emotion and talent. One of the most special things I thought was how even the littlest kids were given a voice. At home and even school, the opinions and ideas of the younger kids are usually ignored, but here they could be leaders! After the entire group did a dance performance they introduced the choreographer, a 11 year old little girl, whose face was just beaming with pride. A fifteen year old boy named Earnest got up and read a poem about AIDS that just blew me away! All the different forms of creative expression were outstanding. They did one exercise where everyone would sing a song, and then after a while, two people would get up and act out what that song meant for them. It was very intense to watch, because all the interpretations were about serious issues that these kids face every day such as gangs, death, fear of arrest or of not going to school anymore. All of them were VERY good at expressing themselves and I could just feel all the powerful emotions in the room. For the next part we got go participate also. We had to act out a little skit as if we were our tour guides from earlier in the afternoon. It was funny to see what people came up with, and the kids really liked being interpreted, and recognized for their uniqueness!

The next part of the evening was a completely different, yet equally wonderful experience! Ellen had organized this amazing authentic African dinner made by the mothers of the kids from the township. We went to this incredibly beautiful house in Camps Bay (where Katie and I want to move someday) right at sunset, and just as the tablecloth of clouds was swirling over the tip of the mountain as it does every day! I don’t think I have been so overwhelmed by pure joy and beauty. Our live entertainment for the night was Ellen’s husband’s band, and the spirit behind the non-profit, Africa Jam! These guys are goooooood, they should definitely tour in the U.S. I enjoyed every second and every note! What a great time to reflect on my incredible time in South Africa!

Wine Tasting Delight!

Today we ventured into yet another side of South Africa, the beautiful wine lands! Only about thirty minutes outside of Cape Town, are several stunning vineyards, and the wine that they produce is beginning to rival the Napa Valley! Katie and I had made reservations at a hostel (yes mom, a hostel!) in the area of Stellenbosch called Stumble Inn. We also booked a wine tour through them that started around 10:30am. But before we got there we had a crazy taxi adventure. The driver swore he knew where it was when he picked us up, but over an hour and a half of driving around seemed to suggest otherwise. We called the inn several times, and they gave him very clear and easy directions, but he STILL couldn’t get us there. Finally we just had him pull over, and the tour guide came and found us! What a relief. We were an hour late for the tour, but we didn’t miss much, and Hantus drove us straight to the first stop.

The entire day was just delightful! I was with a great group of six other girls from the ship and we all had the best time going to the different vineyards! I loved learning all about how to smell a wine, and the proper way to taste it to get the full effect of the flavor. Before long I really could taste (or at least I thought I could) the hint of banana in the Spice Route Pinotage, and how that differed from the taste of the dark merlot! We went to four different vineyards throughout the day, and each was charming and unique. Fairview winery had real goats hanging out in a small tower on the property, and Dieu Donne Vinyards was up on a hill had a picturesque view of the wine lands! The visits were broken up by a cheese tasting, a wonderful lunch, and even a stop for ice cream!

We also had the greatest guide ever! Hantus just wanted to show us everything, and made dinner reservations for the three of us that were staying over night at this great restaurant in the area called Moyo. Then he insisted on driving us there so it would be cheaper, and even made reservations to us to go back to the hostel. I swear the people in Cape Town are some of the friendliest people I have EVER met! The atmosphere of the restaurant was fantastic, it was just like the scene in the real jungle book movie with the big camp ground the English set up at the edge of the jungle, with rows of tents and music and food and firelight, (no body probably knows what I mean by that, but oh, well, that’s what I think of). So after a great meal, we went back to Stellenbosch for the night, and thus ended another fantastic day!

All my Discovery Channel dreams come true!

We arrived in Gansbaai at around 11:30 in the morning after a beautiful two hour drive east of Cape Town. When we finally got there, I was a bundle of nerves and excitement! As many of you know, (especially my family in Maine) I am a die heart Shark Week fan, and have always dreamed of seeing the Great White Shark! South Africa is the best place in the world to see these animals, so even though March is a low month for sightings, I couldn’t be in a better place to try! A huge THANK YOU to my dad who was able to set up a trip for Katie and I from back home! We really appreciate all your time and effort! I love you!

We had a small group going out, only 14 in a boat that can fit 30 so that made it even better. The seas were extremely rocky on the twenty minute boat ride (maybe more of a roller coaster ride) out towards Dryer Island. This is the unique place that entices so many white sharks to come for a meal, because it is home to an enormous seal population. Interestingly though, the company does not chum at the island this time of year. About three years ago, they switched the location of the cage tours after finding more white sharks in a shallower area with a sandy bottom, slightly away from the island. So there we were, crossing our fingers that it would be a lucky day! The cage was already in the water waiting for us. It attaches to the boat right at the surface, so people are never more than a step up from getting back onto the boat. The bubbles from scuba gear actually scare the white sharks away, so conditions rarely allow divers to scuba in the cage. Instead people just go in with masks, and hold their breath for a few seconds at a time to see the sharks. The cage was fairly large, five people could fit in at a time. The water was very cold so we all put thick wet suites on, and just started looking, waiting, and hoping!

Soon I could see the shiny layer of fish oil resting at the top of the water in front of the boat. Surely the sharks had to be smelling something good! A large tuna head was our primary attraction, and it was, attached to a rope dangling right in front of the cage. It didn’t take more than 20 minutes for someone to take the bate! I will never forget my first sighting! I was up at the top of the boat, and it was just a surreal moment to see this huge shadow suddenly come into view. This first shark had to be at least eight feet! Whenever a shark went for the tuna head, the guide would pull the rope in, sending the shark right towards the front of the cage, and sometimes out of the water! I think watching from the top gave the best perspective because I could see the cage, and the animal when it was approaching. And when it for the bait, I could definitely see those infamous teeth as well!

By the time I went down and got in the cage, we had three white sharks taking turns coming in for their close up! I thought it was fascinating how they never came at the same time. The guide said he had never seen two sharks competing for a bite. I guess they are very patient and respectful of one another! The visibility wasn’t great in the water, but it was just insane to duck under and even just catch a glimpse of a huge shark nose, or a beady eye coming right at me! What a crazy experience! A few times, the shark hit the cage, and boy did I jump! I wasn’t scared at all, just amazed that I was actually in the water, not more than a foot away from a great white! Four hours at sea went by like forty minutes, and I could have stayed out all day. Seeing those beautiful and powerful animals really did make all my discovery channel dreams come true and now I can’t wait to do it again!!

God’s Amazing Grace

When we woke up on Sunday morning, it looked like the rain was going to hold off for most of the day. Vicky made “fat dough” for breakfast, which reminded me of fried dough from Old Orchard except it was rolled into a ball and had marmalade inside. Very good, but it made us want to go climb Table Mountain as soon as we left! We also had riboois tea with milk and sugar which has to be one of my favorite things that I have discovered in South Africa. It has the most delicious taste, and I never thought about putting milk in my tea, but now I love it! Mom, I bought some to share with you when I get home! Vicky had a group coming over for lunch (she literally has groups coming in and out of her home all day everyday!) so she walked the six of us over to the church but couldn’t stay.

From the outside, one would never know it was a church building, but we could hear the voices from down the street! The congregation inside was just remarkable! They immediately welcomed us in, and the pastor went and got someone who could translate for us from their native language of Xosa (prenounced kosa). The singing and dancing and praising was non-stop, and it was great to actually be in a church for the first time in over a month! I just let the music wash over me, and just said prayers of gratitude the entire time. At one point, the pastor invited us up to the front to introduce ourselves. Then he wanted us to sing an American song for them…uh-oh, we weren’t prepared for this!! We ended up singing “you are my sunshine” because that is the first thing that popped into our minds! It was silly, but they all laughed and clapped, so it didn’t matter.

Eventually it was time to leave Vicky’s. I gave the kids the few little toys that I had brought, and gave the last hugs and kisses. I held on tight to the little girl who had lost her mother to AIDS. She has forever put a human face on the epidemic for me, and the millions of orphans in Sub-Saharan Africa just like her. I want to do something…

The afternoon we left Vicky’s it was time to go up Table Mountain on the 360° turning cable car! When we got to the top, the first thing I noticed was that it was FREEZING. Being the smart and prepared girls that we always are, Katie and I wanted to look cute at the top of the mountain so we wore skirts, without thinking that the elevation might cause a drop in the temperature! So we basically ran around the walking path as fast as we could, and rounded Table Mountain in about 20 minutes, stopping for the occasional video or picture. But the panoramic views were spectacular!

Small Spec

Around 6:30pm on the second day in Cape Town my friends Jenny, Julie, Charlene, Jessie, Katie and I departed an overnight at a small B&B in one of the townships. Six naive American girls, we had no idea what to expect. We were all so excited and chatty as we made our way out of the city, but as soon as we started to drive into Khayelitsha Township, a complete hush settled over the car. Everyone was just silent, as we got our first glimpse of the real Cape Town. There were shacks made of scrap metal and cardboard as far as the eye could see, and they looked like they could collapse at any second. There were several simple signs that pointed to Vicky’s B&B as we made the narrow turns deeper and deeper into world of seemingly endless poverty. We arrived at a yellow shack (I hate this word, and wish there was another way to explain it, but it is the best way that I know to explain what it looked like) with colorful letters welcoming us to Vicky’s.
Since coming back to the ship and hearing about everyone’s township experiences, I realize even more what a blessing my experience was. The moment we walked in, we were mobbed by little kids! Vicky is taking care of seven kids ranging in age from one to twenty-one. Five are her own, and two are her sister’s who passed away from AIDS six months ago. They wanted to sing songs with us, brush our hair, practice their English, so they would make lists for us to fill in our information. Interestingly, after asking our name, surname, age, and birthday, the next questions were if we had a boyfriend, and if we had a baby.

Vicky’s two oldest daughters cooked us a dinner of lamb, rice, beans, and of course some coca-cola. (It is interesting to see the effects of globalization in the townships. Coca-Cola will provided establishments and streets with free signs, as long as half of the sign has the Coke logo.)

After dinner we had a chance to sit down with Vicky and ask her about her now very successful business. She actually only started it seven years ago, because she wanted to do something, and didn’t just want to open a bar or a restaurant. People told her she was crazy for wanting to start a B&B, because no one would ever want to come and spend a night in Khayelitsha. She also wanted to bring tourism into the townships, to give people a look at what life is really like on a daily basis. So many people just look at the countless shanties as they pass by in a cab from the airport, and would never even think of purposely stopping at one. The small amount of tourists that do make the decision to go, usually end up with a huge tour group and they never even got off the bus. Slowly Vicky built up her business with the help of her family, and now the entire living room is covered in newspaper clippings featuring her establishment. She has even inspired five other women to open their homes to visitors.

It really touched me when she said that she didn’t want people to come just to see the immense poverty in the townships, she wanted them to come inside and find a home, not a shack. And I certainly felt that! I was surprised at my comfort level inside Vicky’s. Before departing from the ship, they warned about the danger of the townships, and how it was very unsafe to go in independently. For once, I have never been so happy that I didn’t follow the rules. I felt very safe, and I really don’t think it was a false sense of security. When we walked around, we were local people, and everyone around us was extremely welcoming and friendly. Lying in bed that night, listening to the sound of pouring rain pounding on the roof was one of those times when I was able to feel and appreciate the full scope of where I was and what I was doing. I was on the continent of Africa, in the country of South Africa. I was near the tip of the county, in the city of Cape Town, and I was sleeping in one little shanty house in the middle of Khayelitsha with 1.3 million other people. It was a very humbling moment, to feel so small, just a little speck in this gigantic world.

Arrival in Cape Town, 3/2/07

It was more important that ever that I wake up for the sunrise in South Africa. The build up excitement to this port has felt like waiting for every Christmas and birthday’s I’ve ever had! When I stepped outside on the seventh deck on the side of the teachers lounge, I was hit by a freezing punch of strong wind. But then a chill came over me for another reason. I saw the dark outline of an unbelievable mountain range lit up by only a sliver of dark orange. It is so hard for me to describe the feeling of pure beauty and awe as I actually saw Table Mountain for the first time! This one landform has given me so much inspiration for the last six months, and now it was actually in my line of sight!

I can’t even imagine a more picturesque city! Cradled between this massive flat mountain and the ocean, I decided was moving here for grad school, before even setting foot off the ship! It was great because I also called my mom when we arrived, when it was midnight her time, and nine in the morning my time. It is still crazy that we are half the world apart.
So, we actually didn’t have to meet with a customs agent face to face this time, so after we had our two diplomatic briefings, the ship was cleared. Katie and I got off for about an hour to get some coffee and try and phone Vicky’s B&B to confirm reservations before leaving for our city orientation at 1pm. Where the Explorer is docked is called the waterfront. It is a five-star tourist heaven, with a huge mall (all the name brand stores including Guess!), outdoor shops, a craft market, internet cafes, basically anything you could ever want. People say that it is a lot like San Francisco.

The City Orientation was fun! We went to the Castle of Good Hope, and the Parliament building, two focal points of downtown Cape Town. Then we went to the national gardens which were gorgeous, and we had tea and biscuits there so that was great. Finally there was a museum visit, and then back to the ship. That night we had a great dinner at ‘Mama Africa’ a restaurant known for great game food that one of our friends from USD had recommended. I ate crocodile, and it was excellent! We stayed out after that on Long Street, which is the place to be in Cape Town for good night life! A wonderful first day in the city, it is still a little surreal that I am here!

Pictures from South Africa!

Hi everyone! I promise to post entries tonight, but for now I will add this link so you can see pictures of my trip! I had the most wonderful time here, and really don't want to leave! I miss you and love you all! And Gram, and Auntie Sue, athank you soooo much for my cards! I got them the first day I was in Cape Town, they really mean a lot to me!
http://sandiego.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2029272&l=da45c&id=24500893

Amazing Amazon!

My anticipation to be in the Amazon made my two early morning flights seem like an eternity. When we arrived in Manaus, and the first thing that everyone noticed was the heat! It was muggy and hot, which turned out to be the weather combination of choice for the next few days! It actually never rained until we were the way back the last night!
The river boats were great!!! The bottom was used for eating and had a small bathroom, and the top was the sleeping/seating area. The first thing I did was go check out the hammocks! They were all colorful, and lined up close together; (I would always bump into someone whenever it started swaying!) I picked out a pink hammock and settled in! What a cool place to sleep for the next few nights!
Looking across the wide river before me I saw what looked to be a sandy beach out in the distance. As it turned out, it was not sand at all, but rather the meeting of the rivers where the Amazon and the Rio Negro touch, but never mix. It was a beautiful sight to see as we got closer. The Amazon was a light muddy color compared to the dark water of the Rio Negro. No one knows exactly why these two rivers don’t mix, and that makes the sight even more special!
Then we moved to a floating dock with a restaurant and place to buy crafts. Here we made our way onto a long wooded plank leading to a pond with giant lily pads! It was a great place to take pictures! (Kate Lilly with the lily pads…very cool!)
Several times during the three days, we got into smaller motorized canoes to go into more narrow parts of the river. They reminded me of the jungle ride at Disney Land only 100x better because it was real!! At one point a group of paddle canoes came up to our boats. My heart almost jumped out of my chest when I realized that a man holding a huge Anaconda was stepping onto my boat! Several of the little kids were holding sloths too. I guess some of the local people living in shacks on the waters edge catch these animals, and then try and make some money by showing them to tourists.
There were so many amazing experiences during the trip that it is hard to even list them all! Alligator catching at night was certainly a memorable time. When the light from a flashlight moves across an alligator’s eyes they will glow red, and the animal will freeze for a few minutes. This is enough time for the guide to move in and grab it!! There were fireflies everywhere, and it was a completely surreal experience to be charging into floating grass on a little riverboat to catch alligators underneath an incredible painted sky of stars! Once they did catch a good sized one, & they opened its mouth to let us see its teeth! I was very jumpy, and was just waiting for one to get loose and bite someone!
We took a couple good rainforest hikes! We would always start at what looked like just a random pace off the river. There were no real paths, so our guide Antonio just used a machete to lead us through the forest. It wasn’t exactly what you might think it would look like. We didn’t see any jaguars, anaconda, or even monkeys. It was just a peaceful beautiful walk in the forest where we learned about traditional medicines from different trees, and lit the sap on fire that the early Portuguese used to use to make gun powder.
One of the highlights from my trip was stopping in a little village called Terra Perta! When I was listening to an introduction from the village president, I noticed a little girl hiding over by a tree who wouldn’t stop smiling and laughing at me. She must have thought I looked crazy or something, because she wouldn’t stop laughing! When we started walking, I held out my hand and she immediately came over and grabbed it. she spoke a different dialect of Portuguese, but we could communicate a little bit in Spanish. Her name was Lydia, and she was ois (ocho) anos. She was just the cutest thing ever! I found out later that she was laughing at my blond hair and my shoes. Here we all were in our hiking boots and the kids had no idea why! She didn’t really leave my side during the tour. We saw some of the houses, all of them were on stilts incase there is flooding. We saw the school where most kids are required to attend until age 14, and the soccer field where the boys from our group later played the Brazilian boys. The village was simple, yet beautiful and it was so interesting to hear about how these people make a living, and contribute to the rich indigenous culture and heritage of the Amazon region.
Fishing for phirana was also a crazy experience! I actually did catch one, but didn’t know how to hold the pole to show the fish so the picture is a little awkward! The guide took the hook out and opened up the mouth so I could see the razor sharp teeth, ahhhhhhh! They cooked up all the fish later in the evening for dinner and we all tried a bite of the day’s catch!
Time sure did go by fast! It was actually a very peaceful trip. The river was absolutely stunning, & I was there with great new friends. Basically life was just amazing in the Amazon, and I will never forget my time there!

Feb. 17, 2007

Hello All! I’m sorry that I have not posted in a while, I had my first exam last week and the satellite internet did not get service for a few days at sea.
I am officially in Salvador Brazil and celebrating my 21st birthday! Thanks for the wonderful birthday wishes! I feel so blessed to have such loving family and friends!

The festivities started last night, when my best friend Katie ordered a huge ice-cream cake after dinner. So far I have met so many wonderful friends on this trip, and it was very special to share that with them! I did stay up until midnight to officiate the day, and then went to sleep for a few hours, but got up at 5am for the sunrise over Salvador! It is truly amazing to wake up so early and sit up at the bow, slowly watching as soft pinks and oranges light up a new city, with new and endless possibilities. I thank God so much for this amazing way to spend my 21st birthday! His beauty and grace always continue to astound me! For the rest of the day I explored the city of Salvador on foot. The city is split into upper and lower sections, connected by one huge elevator in the middle. At the top of the elevator we immediately started to recognize the presence of Carnaval all around us.

Just in Salvador alone, Carnaval draws over 2 million people every year, so everywhere you go, there are tons of people. What has now become known as the world’s largest party actually has very humble beginnings. All of the music, singing, dancing, eating, and drinking of early Carnaval started as a way to bring a community together. Basically it is hard to stay mad at anything too long when there is a celebration that just lets people be together and have a good time! Carnaval developed into a Christian tradition, meant to use up all of the disorder in the world before Lent begins. Also, the more wealthy members of the community would often pay for this celebration to take place, so it is a way of redistributing the wealth. During this week, no previous social norms apply…men can dress as women, a street child can act like a king, and for a moment, everyone appears equal not confined by society’s labels. Just walking through the city I saw such a vibrant culture, with colorful decorations, drumming down every street, and the faces of endless delight with the start of every song!

Tomorrow I am off at 1am to an Amazon adventure. I will spend four days sleeping in a hammock on a river boat somewhere in the Amazon River! We will be fishing for piranha, and going alligator hunting, so I am prepared for anything and everything. I promise to do a post when I get back about ship life, and all of my classes! So for now, take care, & I LOVE YOU!

Bioluminescent Bay

I strap the wet lifejacket around my waist, and make my way toward the water. I jump into the front of a red kayak, and my friend Bob takes the back seat (so he can do the steering!) It is 9pm, and as we paddle away from the bus lights into the narrow salt water channel, darkness suddenly turns to pitch black. All we can see are the thousands of stars above us, and the faint blinking red light on the back of the kayak in front of us. Suddenly, my ears are overwhelmed with the sounds of crickets, tree frogs, and iguanas hidden away in the thick mangrove forest. This background harmony music continues as we navigate the sharp left and right turns of the passage. Baby tarpon are swimming beneath us, and I am startled when they splash the surface unexpectedly. I am so focused on keeping a steady pace and not bumping into trees, that I almost miss the guide yelling for us to look down. As my paddle sweeps the water below, it practically lights up! We are here I think, as the channel now opens up into a large lagoon. I let my fingers drag in warm water, and the glowing little dots slide over my white skin. Each dot is about as big as a sprinkle, but the light it emits is 10x its size. Our guide ties all of the kayaks together, as he talks about what we are seeing. They are single celled biological organisms, and when we touch the water we are applying pressure to the cell wall, causing them to glow. There are only five places in the world where this organism can be found in such high concentrations, and three of them are in Puerto Rico! This is because it takes a very particular environment, rich in biodiversity and nutrients from the mangrove trees for them to survive. If anything happens to alter this perfectly balanced ecosystem, the organism will die. As a last amazing addition to the night, we get to jump in and go for a swim. As I tread water in this bioluminescent lagoon, looking like a human glow stick, I can’t help but wonder what the rest of Semester at Sea will be like. After all…this is only the third day!!!

Hola Mis Amores!

Me encata Puerto Rico! Katie and I woke up at 6:30am Feb. 7 to see the sun rise over San Juan was the Explorer slowly made its way into the dock! AMAZING! I couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to our first port. Soon after, we were greeted on board by the governor of Puerto Rico! He is a younger man, and interacted with the student audience very well. In my global studies class I have already learned a lot about Puerto Rico, and the interesting political relationship that they share with the U.S. Next, we went though customs and got off the ship and right on to a bus for a city orientation. We spent some time at Fort San Christobal, got to go inside the capital building, and walked around the colorful buildings of Old San Juan for lunch. I have been speaking Spanish constantly since we have arrived and just having the best time!

WOW!

I am writing this first entry in a surreal environment, one that I have dreamt about for what seems like forever, my cabin on the MV Explorer! To know that it’s real and to know that I am here is still too crazy of a thought to really understand fully.
We arrived in the Bahamas a week early, and stayed at the Atlantis Hotel on Paradise Island. That place is a world of its own, with a huge casino, one of a kind art, and my favorite part, one of the most amazing aquariums in the world. Just looking at the huge manta ray swimming makes me at peace somehow. I went diving with dad on Wednesday, and both of the dives were amazing! I almost descend right on top of a HUGE stingray, and when I swim to the edge of the blue hole, I spot a reef shark 30 feet down in the darkness. I also saw my second ever lionfish on this dive!
On the morning of Feb 4, we got up around 7, ordered room service, and packed up the last remaining things. Then we went to the loading dock and waited in line for a loooooooong time, and then headed to the cabins. Our new home is cabin 4045, and it is actually a decent size, and I fit all of my stuff in, so things worked out pretty good. Instead of a porthole, we have mirrors! Big ones! But at night, when we shut off the lights, it is pitch black. The same applies in the morning; there is really no way to tell if it is 9 pm or 9am unless you look at a clock. Mom got to come on the ship to have a little tour and a short parent presentation before leaving. I was very sad to say goodbye, and so grateful for all that she has done to prepare me for this trip. Both my parents have been amazing these past few months! Thank you Dad, for spending hours researching cell phone options so that I would have the best way to communicate with you along the way. Thank you Mom for the many shopping excursions before departure to make sure that I was prepared for the next three months! Words cannot even say how grateful I am for this opportunity that you have given me. You have made me the person that I am, the kind of person who wanted to come on this adventure, willing to put everything that I think I know about the world to the test. Basically, THANK YOU FOR GIVING ME THE WORLD! I love you both so much!
We had a lifeboat drill at four, and the ship departed at exactly 5pm. During the lifeboat drill, we had to report to our muster stations and await further instructions. I saw a little man in a large orange vest come dancing past us with a camcorder following him, on his way to lifeboat #5. That was y first glimpse of Desmond Tutu, and it was sure a memorable one! He will be an amazing presence on this ship and that will surely be a highlight of the entire voyage!
The first night we had a welcome orientation. Our executive dean Larry Senegal gave us a great introduction about the most important port on our voyage. Not one of the 11 countries that we will be visiting, but the 12th port, our ship community. I love the quote “be the change you wish to see in the world.” What a unique opportunity it is to create a shipboard community, filled with cooperation, tolerance, diversity, and compassion, which reflects the type of world we all wish to live in! That night we were asked to reflect on two quotes which I will leave for you to think about as well:
“I hear and I forget, I see and I remember, I experience and I understand” ~Old Chinese Proverb
“Travel makes one wiser but less happy” ~Mark Twain
Well, this semester is off to an amazing start, I love all of you and will post again from San Juan, Puerto Rico!

How to Send me Mail

Some people have been wondering if it is possible to send me airmail on the ship. The answer is YES! I would love to receive cards or letters from friends and family, and you might just get something back when I am in port! The U.S. Post Office recommends sending international mail at least two weeks in advance. They also suggest NOT sending packages because customs restrictions will make it very difficult to deliver them. I know all of you are very busy, but if you have the time, anything you send would be greatly appreciated! Here are the addresses:

PUERTO RICO- AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN JAN. 24

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives February 7, 2007
Cruise Plus Services and Sales
1760 Fernandez Juncos Avenue
San Juan, PUERTO RICO, 00909

BRAZIL-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN FEB. 3 (we get there on my b-day!!)

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives February 17
Oceanus Agencia Maritima
Av. Estados Unidos, 397, Room 601-604
40018-900 Salvador, BAHIA-BRAZIL

SOUTH AFRICA-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN FEB. 16

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives March 2
John T. Rennie& Sons
PO Box 702, 1 Thibault House
8000 Cape Town, SOUTH AFRICA

MAURITIUS-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN MAR 1

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives March 15
Ireland Blyth Limited
1 Queen Street, P.O. Box 53
Port Louis, MAURITIUS

INDIA-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN MARCH 11

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives March 25
J.M. Baxi & CO.
52 Rajaji Salai
Chennai-6000 001, INDIA

MALAYSIA-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN MARCH 19

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives April 2
Inchcape Shipping Services SDN
4th Floor Unit 4B
Wisma Saw Chong Thuah
39-c, Pengkalan Weld
10300 Penang, MALAYSIA

VIETNAM-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN MARCH 26

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives April 9
General Forwarding & Agency
5th Floor Osic Building
8 Nguyen Hue Avenue
D. 1, Ho Chi Minh City, VIETNAM

HONG KONG-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN APRIL 3

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives April 17
Inchcape Shipping Services (HK) Ltd.
Units 1802-1805, 18th Floor
No 3 Lockhart Road
Wanchai, HONG KONG-CHINA

CHINA-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN APRIL 7

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives April 21
Penavico Qingdao
21 Wuxia Road
Quingdao, 266002, P.R. CHINA

JAPAN-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN APRIL 11

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives April 25
Inchcape Shipping Services
Kenryu Bldg II, Room 303
6, Kaigan-dori, Chuo-ku
Kobe-shi, Hyogo-Ken 650-0024, JAPAN

HAWAII-AIRMAIL NO LATER THAN APRIL 23

Kate Lilly
C/O: MV Explorer
Arrives May 7
Inchcape Shipping Services
Gentry Pacific Center
260 North Numitz Hwy, Suite 103
HONOLULU, Hawaii 96817, USA

19 Days!

Well now the countdown has really begun! Only 19 days until the Bahamas. I just got back from the American Humanics Management Institute in Washington D.C. It was a 3-day conference on opportunities for a career in the non-profit sector, and was part of my ceritification for the American Humanics cirtificate at USD. Seeing the sights in D.C. got me even more excited to travel abroad! These next couple of weeks will be filled with packing, last minute preparations, and making sure that my mom doesn't go too crazy with worry!

I can't wait to meet the 650 other students on the ship, but it is such a blessing and comfort that one of my best friends Katie Rasinski will be my roomate and travel buddie on the trip! She is the first person I ever met at college, way back on the Pre-O retreat freshman year. She will be my connection to home, and and it will be great to experience this once in a lifetime adventure with her!

Less than a month!

Well it is January 1st, and that means that I now only have 28 days until it's time to go! The MX Explorer will be departing from Nassau in the Bahamas on February 4. For 100 days, I will be taking classes on the ship, and traveling to nine different countries spanning four different continents with 650 other college students from around the country.

As a very special bonus, Nobel Peace Prize winner Archbishop Desmond Tutu will be sailing with us for the full 100 days, giving guest lectures along the way! Right now I am reading a two books about him, and am amazed at how his gentle yet powerful spirit has influenced so much change in South Africa. His belief in hope for our world is inspiring, and I can't wait to meet him and hear him speak!

Itinerary
Nassau, Bahamas: Depart February 4
San Juan, Puerto Rico: February 7-9
Salvador, Brazil: February 17-21
Cape Town, South Africa: March 2-8
Port Louis, Mauritius: March 15-17
Chennai, India: March 25-29
Penang, Malaysia: April 2-5
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: April 9-14
Hong Kong: April 17-18
Qingado, China: April 21-22
Kobe, Japan: April 25-29
Honolulu, Hawaii: May 7
San Diego, California: May 14

Classes
* Global Studies
* Psychology of Women
* World History 1400-1914
* HIV/AIDS

I am going to try and update this journal once a week, and/or when I return from a port country. Please feel free to leave me comments after each entry, I would love to hear from family, friends, and future SASers along the way!
I also have a new e-mail address: klilly4@gmail.com However, I do have limited Internet time so this journal will be my main source of communication with everyone.