Saturday, March 31, 2007

India Pictures

Hi everyone, as usual, the pictures are up before the posts! I will try to get everying up by Malaysia! I had the most wonderful time in India. I didn't go to the Taj so I could do this overnight in a Dalit village which is where the untouchables live, and that was amazing! One of the best things I have ever done! Click below to see all my pictures!

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Sunday, March 18, 2007

One Last Thing!



So, I know it took me forever to post about South Africa, and I bet you didn’t know you would be getting a novel! But I hope you all got an idea of what I did, and how much this beautiful country has touched my heart! The kindness of the people is what I will remember the most. Truly remarkable days like these don’t come around too often, and I am forever grateful for the amazing gift of being changed by these people, and this new place that I love, Cape Town! One thing is for sure; Nick Galipeau, you and I are definitely coming back for World Cup 2010!!

Right now I am actually on at sea again after departing from Mauritius. My time in Mauritius was a wonderful time to relax and appreciate the beautiful beaches. It is known as the spring break in the trip, because this port falls right before we start the more hectic schedule of traveling in India and Asia. So, I stayed in a villa with several of my friends on Flic and Flac beach, about thirty minutes outside of Port Louis. The weather was nice when we were there, mostly high 80°’s, but about a week early the island had a very bad storm with some damage, so unfortunately I couldn’t find any scuba-diving operators that were going out. But I did finish two of my pleasure books and got a little tan, so that was great! A big thank you to Aunt Betty, Auntie Shelly, and Mom for your cards in this port! I know I have said it before, but what an amazing blessing it is to have such a loving and supporting family! You are all in my prayers as well, I love you more than words can say!

Africa Jam

The last full day in Cape Town I went back again to Khayelitsha township. One of my friends from USD Jenny had organized this independent township visit and service project with this great Christian NGO called Africa Jam. It was started by this amazing lady Ellen, who first came to South Africa on a missions trip, and ended up falling in love, not only with the country, but with a man in one of the townships. She left her life in Minnesota, and moved to Africa, and started this organization, based around her husband’s love of music. They offer programs for children in several of the townships that introduce them to art and music, and Christian values. I loved listening to her inspiring story of starting a grassroots NGO. I am more positive than ever that my future career will be somewhere in the social programming domain.
Our project for the day was to participate in an after school drama program in Khayelitsha. What an incredible experience. When we arrived we were split into small groups, two semester at sea kids with two kids from the township. They took us around on a tour, which was great because it was so personal and we really got a chance to talk to them.

Observing the drama project itself was amazing! Once the program started, the inside of this large shack made of scrap metal was suddenly transformed into a stage, full of emotion and talent. One of the most special things I thought was how even the littlest kids were given a voice. At home and even school, the opinions and ideas of the younger kids are usually ignored, but here they could be leaders! After the entire group did a dance performance they introduced the choreographer, a 11 year old little girl, whose face was just beaming with pride. A fifteen year old boy named Earnest got up and read a poem about AIDS that just blew me away! All the different forms of creative expression were outstanding. They did one exercise where everyone would sing a song, and then after a while, two people would get up and act out what that song meant for them. It was very intense to watch, because all the interpretations were about serious issues that these kids face every day such as gangs, death, fear of arrest or of not going to school anymore. All of them were VERY good at expressing themselves and I could just feel all the powerful emotions in the room. For the next part we got go participate also. We had to act out a little skit as if we were our tour guides from earlier in the afternoon. It was funny to see what people came up with, and the kids really liked being interpreted, and recognized for their uniqueness!

The next part of the evening was a completely different, yet equally wonderful experience! Ellen had organized this amazing authentic African dinner made by the mothers of the kids from the township. We went to this incredibly beautiful house in Camps Bay (where Katie and I want to move someday) right at sunset, and just as the tablecloth of clouds was swirling over the tip of the mountain as it does every day! I don’t think I have been so overwhelmed by pure joy and beauty. Our live entertainment for the night was Ellen’s husband’s band, and the spirit behind the non-profit, Africa Jam! These guys are goooooood, they should definitely tour in the U.S. I enjoyed every second and every note! What a great time to reflect on my incredible time in South Africa!

Wine Tasting Delight!

Today we ventured into yet another side of South Africa, the beautiful wine lands! Only about thirty minutes outside of Cape Town, are several stunning vineyards, and the wine that they produce is beginning to rival the Napa Valley! Katie and I had made reservations at a hostel (yes mom, a hostel!) in the area of Stellenbosch called Stumble Inn. We also booked a wine tour through them that started around 10:30am. But before we got there we had a crazy taxi adventure. The driver swore he knew where it was when he picked us up, but over an hour and a half of driving around seemed to suggest otherwise. We called the inn several times, and they gave him very clear and easy directions, but he STILL couldn’t get us there. Finally we just had him pull over, and the tour guide came and found us! What a relief. We were an hour late for the tour, but we didn’t miss much, and Hantus drove us straight to the first stop.

The entire day was just delightful! I was with a great group of six other girls from the ship and we all had the best time going to the different vineyards! I loved learning all about how to smell a wine, and the proper way to taste it to get the full effect of the flavor. Before long I really could taste (or at least I thought I could) the hint of banana in the Spice Route Pinotage, and how that differed from the taste of the dark merlot! We went to four different vineyards throughout the day, and each was charming and unique. Fairview winery had real goats hanging out in a small tower on the property, and Dieu Donne Vinyards was up on a hill had a picturesque view of the wine lands! The visits were broken up by a cheese tasting, a wonderful lunch, and even a stop for ice cream!

We also had the greatest guide ever! Hantus just wanted to show us everything, and made dinner reservations for the three of us that were staying over night at this great restaurant in the area called Moyo. Then he insisted on driving us there so it would be cheaper, and even made reservations to us to go back to the hostel. I swear the people in Cape Town are some of the friendliest people I have EVER met! The atmosphere of the restaurant was fantastic, it was just like the scene in the real jungle book movie with the big camp ground the English set up at the edge of the jungle, with rows of tents and music and food and firelight, (no body probably knows what I mean by that, but oh, well, that’s what I think of). So after a great meal, we went back to Stellenbosch for the night, and thus ended another fantastic day!

All my Discovery Channel dreams come true!

We arrived in Gansbaai at around 11:30 in the morning after a beautiful two hour drive east of Cape Town. When we finally got there, I was a bundle of nerves and excitement! As many of you know, (especially my family in Maine) I am a die heart Shark Week fan, and have always dreamed of seeing the Great White Shark! South Africa is the best place in the world to see these animals, so even though March is a low month for sightings, I couldn’t be in a better place to try! A huge THANK YOU to my dad who was able to set up a trip for Katie and I from back home! We really appreciate all your time and effort! I love you!

We had a small group going out, only 14 in a boat that can fit 30 so that made it even better. The seas were extremely rocky on the twenty minute boat ride (maybe more of a roller coaster ride) out towards Dryer Island. This is the unique place that entices so many white sharks to come for a meal, because it is home to an enormous seal population. Interestingly though, the company does not chum at the island this time of year. About three years ago, they switched the location of the cage tours after finding more white sharks in a shallower area with a sandy bottom, slightly away from the island. So there we were, crossing our fingers that it would be a lucky day! The cage was already in the water waiting for us. It attaches to the boat right at the surface, so people are never more than a step up from getting back onto the boat. The bubbles from scuba gear actually scare the white sharks away, so conditions rarely allow divers to scuba in the cage. Instead people just go in with masks, and hold their breath for a few seconds at a time to see the sharks. The cage was fairly large, five people could fit in at a time. The water was very cold so we all put thick wet suites on, and just started looking, waiting, and hoping!

Soon I could see the shiny layer of fish oil resting at the top of the water in front of the boat. Surely the sharks had to be smelling something good! A large tuna head was our primary attraction, and it was, attached to a rope dangling right in front of the cage. It didn’t take more than 20 minutes for someone to take the bate! I will never forget my first sighting! I was up at the top of the boat, and it was just a surreal moment to see this huge shadow suddenly come into view. This first shark had to be at least eight feet! Whenever a shark went for the tuna head, the guide would pull the rope in, sending the shark right towards the front of the cage, and sometimes out of the water! I think watching from the top gave the best perspective because I could see the cage, and the animal when it was approaching. And when it for the bait, I could definitely see those infamous teeth as well!

By the time I went down and got in the cage, we had three white sharks taking turns coming in for their close up! I thought it was fascinating how they never came at the same time. The guide said he had never seen two sharks competing for a bite. I guess they are very patient and respectful of one another! The visibility wasn’t great in the water, but it was just insane to duck under and even just catch a glimpse of a huge shark nose, or a beady eye coming right at me! What a crazy experience! A few times, the shark hit the cage, and boy did I jump! I wasn’t scared at all, just amazed that I was actually in the water, not more than a foot away from a great white! Four hours at sea went by like forty minutes, and I could have stayed out all day. Seeing those beautiful and powerful animals really did make all my discovery channel dreams come true and now I can’t wait to do it again!!

God’s Amazing Grace

When we woke up on Sunday morning, it looked like the rain was going to hold off for most of the day. Vicky made “fat dough” for breakfast, which reminded me of fried dough from Old Orchard except it was rolled into a ball and had marmalade inside. Very good, but it made us want to go climb Table Mountain as soon as we left! We also had riboois tea with milk and sugar which has to be one of my favorite things that I have discovered in South Africa. It has the most delicious taste, and I never thought about putting milk in my tea, but now I love it! Mom, I bought some to share with you when I get home! Vicky had a group coming over for lunch (she literally has groups coming in and out of her home all day everyday!) so she walked the six of us over to the church but couldn’t stay.

From the outside, one would never know it was a church building, but we could hear the voices from down the street! The congregation inside was just remarkable! They immediately welcomed us in, and the pastor went and got someone who could translate for us from their native language of Xosa (prenounced kosa). The singing and dancing and praising was non-stop, and it was great to actually be in a church for the first time in over a month! I just let the music wash over me, and just said prayers of gratitude the entire time. At one point, the pastor invited us up to the front to introduce ourselves. Then he wanted us to sing an American song for them…uh-oh, we weren’t prepared for this!! We ended up singing “you are my sunshine” because that is the first thing that popped into our minds! It was silly, but they all laughed and clapped, so it didn’t matter.

Eventually it was time to leave Vicky’s. I gave the kids the few little toys that I had brought, and gave the last hugs and kisses. I held on tight to the little girl who had lost her mother to AIDS. She has forever put a human face on the epidemic for me, and the millions of orphans in Sub-Saharan Africa just like her. I want to do something…

The afternoon we left Vicky’s it was time to go up Table Mountain on the 360° turning cable car! When we got to the top, the first thing I noticed was that it was FREEZING. Being the smart and prepared girls that we always are, Katie and I wanted to look cute at the top of the mountain so we wore skirts, without thinking that the elevation might cause a drop in the temperature! So we basically ran around the walking path as fast as we could, and rounded Table Mountain in about 20 minutes, stopping for the occasional video or picture. But the panoramic views were spectacular!

Small Spec

Around 6:30pm on the second day in Cape Town my friends Jenny, Julie, Charlene, Jessie, Katie and I departed an overnight at a small B&B in one of the townships. Six naive American girls, we had no idea what to expect. We were all so excited and chatty as we made our way out of the city, but as soon as we started to drive into Khayelitsha Township, a complete hush settled over the car. Everyone was just silent, as we got our first glimpse of the real Cape Town. There were shacks made of scrap metal and cardboard as far as the eye could see, and they looked like they could collapse at any second. There were several simple signs that pointed to Vicky’s B&B as we made the narrow turns deeper and deeper into world of seemingly endless poverty. We arrived at a yellow shack (I hate this word, and wish there was another way to explain it, but it is the best way that I know to explain what it looked like) with colorful letters welcoming us to Vicky’s.
Since coming back to the ship and hearing about everyone’s township experiences, I realize even more what a blessing my experience was. The moment we walked in, we were mobbed by little kids! Vicky is taking care of seven kids ranging in age from one to twenty-one. Five are her own, and two are her sister’s who passed away from AIDS six months ago. They wanted to sing songs with us, brush our hair, practice their English, so they would make lists for us to fill in our information. Interestingly, after asking our name, surname, age, and birthday, the next questions were if we had a boyfriend, and if we had a baby.

Vicky’s two oldest daughters cooked us a dinner of lamb, rice, beans, and of course some coca-cola. (It is interesting to see the effects of globalization in the townships. Coca-Cola will provided establishments and streets with free signs, as long as half of the sign has the Coke logo.)

After dinner we had a chance to sit down with Vicky and ask her about her now very successful business. She actually only started it seven years ago, because she wanted to do something, and didn’t just want to open a bar or a restaurant. People told her she was crazy for wanting to start a B&B, because no one would ever want to come and spend a night in Khayelitsha. She also wanted to bring tourism into the townships, to give people a look at what life is really like on a daily basis. So many people just look at the countless shanties as they pass by in a cab from the airport, and would never even think of purposely stopping at one. The small amount of tourists that do make the decision to go, usually end up with a huge tour group and they never even got off the bus. Slowly Vicky built up her business with the help of her family, and now the entire living room is covered in newspaper clippings featuring her establishment. She has even inspired five other women to open their homes to visitors.

It really touched me when she said that she didn’t want people to come just to see the immense poverty in the townships, she wanted them to come inside and find a home, not a shack. And I certainly felt that! I was surprised at my comfort level inside Vicky’s. Before departing from the ship, they warned about the danger of the townships, and how it was very unsafe to go in independently. For once, I have never been so happy that I didn’t follow the rules. I felt very safe, and I really don’t think it was a false sense of security. When we walked around, we were local people, and everyone around us was extremely welcoming and friendly. Lying in bed that night, listening to the sound of pouring rain pounding on the roof was one of those times when I was able to feel and appreciate the full scope of where I was and what I was doing. I was on the continent of Africa, in the country of South Africa. I was near the tip of the county, in the city of Cape Town, and I was sleeping in one little shanty house in the middle of Khayelitsha with 1.3 million other people. It was a very humbling moment, to feel so small, just a little speck in this gigantic world.

Arrival in Cape Town, 3/2/07

It was more important that ever that I wake up for the sunrise in South Africa. The build up excitement to this port has felt like waiting for every Christmas and birthday’s I’ve ever had! When I stepped outside on the seventh deck on the side of the teachers lounge, I was hit by a freezing punch of strong wind. But then a chill came over me for another reason. I saw the dark outline of an unbelievable mountain range lit up by only a sliver of dark orange. It is so hard for me to describe the feeling of pure beauty and awe as I actually saw Table Mountain for the first time! This one landform has given me so much inspiration for the last six months, and now it was actually in my line of sight!

I can’t even imagine a more picturesque city! Cradled between this massive flat mountain and the ocean, I decided was moving here for grad school, before even setting foot off the ship! It was great because I also called my mom when we arrived, when it was midnight her time, and nine in the morning my time. It is still crazy that we are half the world apart.
So, we actually didn’t have to meet with a customs agent face to face this time, so after we had our two diplomatic briefings, the ship was cleared. Katie and I got off for about an hour to get some coffee and try and phone Vicky’s B&B to confirm reservations before leaving for our city orientation at 1pm. Where the Explorer is docked is called the waterfront. It is a five-star tourist heaven, with a huge mall (all the name brand stores including Guess!), outdoor shops, a craft market, internet cafes, basically anything you could ever want. People say that it is a lot like San Francisco.

The City Orientation was fun! We went to the Castle of Good Hope, and the Parliament building, two focal points of downtown Cape Town. Then we went to the national gardens which were gorgeous, and we had tea and biscuits there so that was great. Finally there was a museum visit, and then back to the ship. That night we had a great dinner at ‘Mama Africa’ a restaurant known for great game food that one of our friends from USD had recommended. I ate crocodile, and it was excellent! We stayed out after that on Long Street, which is the place to be in Cape Town for good night life! A wonderful first day in the city, it is still a little surreal that I am here!

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Pictures from South Africa!

Hi everyone! I promise to post entries tonight, but for now I will add this link so you can see pictures of my trip! I had the most wonderful time here, and really don't want to leave! I miss you and love you all! And Gram, and Auntie Sue, athank you soooo much for my cards! I got them the first day I was in Cape Town, they really mean a lot to me!
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